Fort Tryon Park on a Sunday afternoon in October, the light's all blue and gold through the trees. The sun is setting over the Palisades, bathing the stones of the old fort and the even older monastery in autumn light. The Medieval Festival ended an hour ago but people are still hanging around, playing fiddle and bodhran and pipes in pickup bands while couples dance to the reels and morrises, dancing steps that were already old when the Druids first came to Ireland. The merchants are slowly taking down their stands, still making sales of tapestries and cotton candy, beer and amulets to those who are having too much fun to let the day end. I make my last pass around the fairgrounds and decide to head for home.
There are two ways to go to the subway from here. There's the elevator at 190th Street that almost everybody uses, riding about twelve stories down through the mountain to the platform. After the fair the line is endless and platform is jammed. Which is why I always walk north. I take the little stone staircase across the plaza from the main entrance to the Cloisters, and follow the narrow path down the north slope. This leads to the Dyckman Street station, the next-to-last stop on the line. Here you can stand with the few other people who come this way and watch the train come rolling down from the terminal at 207th Street. And you can get a seat before the mob gets on at 190th.
By now it's nearly totally night time, but I'm stopping at each hairpin turn on the path to shoot pictures. Pictures of the river, the trees, the lamp posts lighting up along the trail. It's eerie but it's also magical. That was when I saw her.
Now here you might expect to see a ghost. I mean, here is the fort that General Washington defended against the British in 1776. Here is the stone monument on the cliff to Margaret Corbin, the first woman to take up arms to defend the infant United States. Her husband was a captain in the artillery and when he was killed she took up his position and commanded his cannon. And here is The Cloisters, a real medieval monastery transplanted brick by brick to this park on top of the mountain. Parts of it date from the twelfth century, parts from later on, into the Renaissance. Monks knelt in this apse to receive communion three hundred years before Shakespeare was born. American soldiers walked these bastions, watching for British ships in the Hudson River more than two hundred years ago. You might expect to see a ghost.
But what I saw was not some knight in armor, nor some man in a blue, or red, coat with a musket on his shoulder. What I saw was a girl in her late twenties wearing jeans and a blazer. Not quite pretty, but definitely cute. She had long brown hair and glasses, and the sunniest smile I've seen in forever.
The thought of a ghost never entered my mind when she walked up behind me after I'd passed the first hairpin turn. She smiled at me and said, "So, did you have a good time?" I laughed and said, "Yeah, totally wonderful!" She told me she lived nearby, but she hadn't known today was the festival, so it was a nice surprise for her. I told her I lived in Brooklyn but that I come every year for this event.
She said I should come sometime when it isn't so crowded, because it's a totally different world. I told her my favorite time to come is the dead of winter. She lowered her eyes to the ground and in a small voice said, "But in winter everything is so dead." I told her I liked the atmosphere then, that it's easy to feel like you've slipped into the Middle Ages. She lit up and smiled at that.
We talked on about the fair, and what we most liked about it, all the way to the bottom of the mountain. There was no flirtation, no trying to pick up. Just two people who'd shared an experience, talking about what it meant to them.
The path from the top to the street is about half a mile long, and we weren't walking fast at all because we were both enjoying each other's company so much. When we got to the bottom we stopped briefly at a crossroads. One path lead straight out to the street and that was mine, from there to turn left and walk a block to the subway entrance. The other turned south, at right angles to my road. I asked her where she lived and she said, "Oh, over by Bennett Avenue." But she looked kind of vague and a little confused when she said it. I just chalked it up to not wanting to tell a total stranger where she lived. At the crossroads I told her to to have a good evening, and she wished me the same. Then she turned south on the path and walked into the evening.
I stood and watched her walk away, not with any thought of following her or seeing her again, but only because talking with her had left me feeling so good. She had lifted a weight from my heart that I didn't even know was there til she'd taken it away, and I felt light and airy and peaceful.
She hadn't walked more than fifty feet away from me when she began to fade.
Now I know, it was nearly dark. And there were only a few streetlights along her path. But that path ran straight south through a flat and even lawn, about twenty feet inside the stone wall that surrounds the park. There were no turnoffs from the path, and it was at least a hundred feet west to the first of the trees that covered the hill. There was no place for her to disappear to, but disappear she did. Right in front of my amazed eyes.
I stood there at the crossroads a few minutes, then walked out of the park and up the street to the subway, thankful for gift I'd been given.